Seattle Home Inspector's Blog

     Every listing that I have ever seen lists the number of bedrooms present in the home.  The number of bedrooms seems to be a big selling point.  What is to be done when it is discovered that for "technical" reasons one or more of these rooms is not really a bedroom?  Are there any liability issues, if some one declares that a room is a bedroom and the buyer uses that room as a bedroom but can't get out of the room in an emergency----and someone dies?  Are buyers aware that the "sales" definition of "bedroom" may not have anything to do with the "real" definition of a bedroom?

     First of all----I thought I would make a list of some of the things that are required by "today's standards" regarding bedrooms.  After all wouldn't that ultimately define whether a room is a bedroom or not----for it to have all the elements that they are "required" to have for the particular jurisdiction?

     Based on modern standards, here is a partial list of what is required (with some variations by jurisdiction).  If any of these elements are not present----it is "technically" not a bedroom (or living space).  This list is not an attempt to list every possible scenario but is designed to overwhelm the reader with just how much is actually involved in getting a room to be a "bedroom."  I hope some of the other inspectors will chime in with other "qualifications" and "requirements" to extend this already large list.

1.  Natural light glazing greater than 8 percent of floor area (unless approved artificial)

     a. Safety glass where required

2.  Natural ventilation (unless approved mechanical type)

3.  A Door (some jurisdictions)

4.  Sleeping rooms have to have at least one openable emergency escape and rescue opening.

     a.   Sill height of not more than 44 inches above the floor.

     b.   Window well necessary for egress at below grade bedrooms. (minimum 9 sq ft horizontally in well---36" minimum width away from window)

     c.   Egress openings of 5.7 square feet (5 feet for rooms at grade)

     d.   Minimum height of 24 inches

     e.   Minimum width of 20 inches 

     f.   Grilles/bars/screens must be easily removable from the inside without special tools

5.  Bedroom size must be at least 70 sq ft

6.  Bedrooms not less than 7 feet in any horizontal dimension.

7.  Areas of the space that are less than 7' high don't count in sq footage.

8.  Minimum ceiling height of 7'

9.  Smoke alarm/detector----hard wired and battery backup

     a.   In each sleeping room.

     b.   Outside each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms.

10.  AFCI protected 120 volt outlets:

     a.   Receptacles

     b.   Light fixtures

     c.   Switches

     d.   120 volt wall heaters and fans

     e.   Smoke alarm detectors

     (with any of these components not AFCI protected the room would no longer be in compliance and loose its designation as a bedroom----technically).

11.  No open flame appliances (with exceptions):  Fireplaces, furnaces, water heaters

12.  Source of heat.

      Listings seem to use a "sales-shorthand" definition of bedrooms based on selectively choosing some of the things on this list of required conditions.  At some point the space becomes a "bedroom with defects," and placing a clear-cut line on when the space is not a bedroom and a "bedroom with defects" is not always easy.  This is the result of the large number of older homes built prior to modern standards or built at times of no standards, or built without permits.

     Interestingly enough the code does not actually address the presence of a closet----yet most assume they are required and is typically part of the "sales-shorthand" definition of a bedroom.

     Do these listings have the potential of misleading buyers regarding the use of these spaces----creating not only liability but potentially reduced value later on?  In some cases I would think so.

     Let's take the room in the following picture.

    This is newer (eight years old) construction----and is the Master "Bedroom."

     No smoke alarm/detector.

     No means of egress (note the very high undersized window). The lower windows on the right (one is out of the picture) are both fixed panes.

     No heat.

     It does have a closet and a bed.

     In good conscience can we call this a bedroom?  If it would not pass inspection as a "habitable" room and does not meet code requirements for bedrooms----how can we call it a bedroom?

     In my inspection report I like to state the number of bedrooms.  Sometimes I can not make that number the same as the listing information.  Sometimes instead of the "Upper SE Bedroom," it becomes the "Upper SE Room."  It is my feeble attempt to truly inform the buyer of what they are getting themselves into.  If the fixes to make it a real bedroom are simple, that would be a different story.

Charles Buell

     This is just a short little post about "necessity" being, "the mother of invention" (or better yet the child of destruction).  Someone wanted a light fixture at the peak of the roof to light up the back yard----who doesn't.     Solution? 

     Just run a wire from a switch next to the fireplace, up through the brick of the chimney, install a receptacle, and just plug it in.  This is a wood burning fireplace I might add-----and in obviously poor condition (along with the entire addition that ultimately had to be torn down).  It was an installation that hopefully no licensed Sparky would ever do.

     You can't see the light in this picture, but you can see the cord coiled up on the roof and running around the corner toward the light.  Note also the plug on the pipe running down through the roof-----this is for another light on top of the pipe---and just waiting to be plugged in.  Now obviously when you have such an installation you don't want water getting into the outlet and running down inside the chimney where it might do some damage----so you have to tape the outlet all up nice with electrical tape.

     At least they didn't use duct tape. 

     Would duct tape have been better?  Let's don't go there. 

Charles Buell

     One thing that is universal about laundry rooms is that the walls behind washers and dryers are often trashed either from mechanical damage or hidden leaks----both past and present.  I can imagine what many buyers must think when they start to move in and find these conditions when they go to install their own washer and dryer.  The walls weren't visible when they looked at the property initially because the sellers appliances where installed and the inspector didn't notice (or couldn't see) the damage either.

    It is not too hard to understand the need for fire-rated walls between attached dwellings like condos and townhouses.  While the requirements have changed over the years and there are variations in the requirements from jurisdiction to jurisdiction, it is a good idea to look for problems related to the walls between these types of structures.  So, it is only logical that a possible place for the firewall to be compromised would be behind the washer dryer.

     These areas are very difficult to visually inspect unless you are fortunate enough to be 7 feet tall and can adequately lean over the units to have a look see.  Even that doesn't help if shelving is installed in the way above them.  I can usually get my camera in a position to shoot some "hail-Mary" photos of the area---often revealing all kinds of funs stuff from missing underwear to ruptured supply hoses and bad electrical connections.  Also, any damage to walls might be visible.

    This was the case in a Condo I inspected the other day.  Apparently in order for the appliances to be installed, and still allow for the bi-fold doors to close, there wasn't quite enough room behind the dryer to run the vent pipe.  The installer just cut away some of the drywall of the fire-wall between the two units.  Probably not the best solution, and it is another example of the breakdown that happens with overspecialization and/or lack of knowledge about the requirements of other trades.  (Translates to "job security" for me)

     A large percentage of house fires are involved with dryer venting.  For more information on this particular type of dryer foil vent pipe please visit my post: Slay the "Fire-Breathing Dryer!" 

Charles Buell

     Everyone is familiar, no doubt, with the practice of placing air fresheners around the home when the home is for sale.  Some people apparently like to have these things around even when the house isn't for sale.  Bathrooms are a common place for them.  I often see the ones that are a night light with oil in them.  The heat of the bulb warms up the oil so that it gives off the desired odors. 

     I HATE these things----and that puts it mildly.  I am one of those people that are bothered by all kinds of perfumes.  As an inspector, I don't remark on how nice they smell but want to know what someone is trying to cover up.  I often find them in every room in the house when there have been pets---smoking----or the "M" word. 

     The other day I inspected a commercial property where one of the "rustic" potties once had one of these plug-in oil-filled air fresheners.  The lamp was gone, but there were signs of where the genie had left the bottle.  Maybe he moved into the paper dispenser above? My guess is that these devices are not UL Listed as cigarette holders to be used while one whizzes or washes one's hands.

      As it turns out there is a fair amount of "anecdotal" information on the web as to the safety of these devices but even more "scientific" evidence to support that they actually contribute to worsening the indoor air quality as opposed to improving it. 

     My nose----feels quite validated.

Charles Buell

     Steve and I kid a lot about our infamous home inspection Assistants, Nutsy and Raven.  The other day I actually did have a home inspection assistant of sorts.  It is pretty unusual to have any company in the crawl space with me.  In fact, I really discourage it because of the liability involved.  You never know what you are going to run into down there, from electrically energized ductwork, exposed hot wires, plumbing leaks, hazardous materials, vermin, structural problems etc.

     But this assistant didn't really give me any choice as he jumped right in and started without me.  He seemed a little distracted by the obvious rat infestation however.  As we traversed through the crawl space he was able to get into a lot of places I had no chance of getting into.  Now if I could only get him to communicate what he saw. 

     What I need is a good "cat whisperer."

Charles Buell 

PS, for those of you that are new to my blog (or for some other "unexplained" reason have never noticed)all  pictures and smiley-face inserts (emoticons) (when I use them) have messages that show up when you point at them with your cursor.

DeCroe, is my "certiflied" home inspector assistant and occasionally flies into my blog to offer assistance.  To find out more about her beginnings just click on Raven.   

     In this picture of a very moss covered roof it is very clear that the various galvanized plumbing vent-pipe penetrations are in fact reducing the moss growth in the areas beneath them.

     In this next picture, the black algae discoloration---another type of vegetative growth that occurs on roofs----can also be affected by zinc given off by nearby galvanized components on the roof.  In this case the chimney restraint brackets and chimney flashings are helping to keep the roof clear of algae in a distinctive pattern that corresponds to the bracket and chimney installation.  It almost looks as if someone got up there and cleaned that area.

     Left and right of the clean area you can see the distinctive marks of where someone has pressure washed the roof---but not really consistent with the area cleaned by the zinc from the galvanized components.

     So why don't we see more zinc strips on roofs?

     I think the main reason is because they are "unsightly"----people don't like the way they look and if they aren't installed about every 3 feet on the roof they will not keep the entire roof free of moss & algae growth.  Note how in the second picture the roof is only "totally" clean about three feet below the bracket?

     I know you are waiting for my recommendation for an easy solution----but alas I have none.  Some roofing materials supposedly have zinc granules included in the roofing materials itself, and the effectiveness of this approach has yet to prove itself to me.  It would seem to me that these roofs would stick out like a sore thumb in the NW but I have yet to see this.  As near as I can tell the algae doesn't represent much of a problem for the roofing materials itself----unlike the moss which should be controlled.  Sweeping the roof during the dry season seems to be effective.  Pressure washing should always be avoided as it will take far more years off the life of the roof than sweeping will.

     The most important thing I can say about moss on your roof?----be careful up there.  Only people experienced to work on roofs should do maintenance work on roofs.

Charles Buell